Ireland

[Ed S]

It looks like my wife and I will be heading to Ireland in late May or early June. We'll be doing a self drive tour. I'm looking for some recommendations or comments regarding the itinerary that seems to be shaping up, as well well as some stops along the route.

Here's how it's looking so far:

Day 1 - Fly into Dublin and spend all day night 1 there.

Day 2 - drive to Belfast for night 2.

Day 3 - Head to Derry by way of the Antrim Coast.

Day 4,5 - Drive to Galway and spend a couple of nights there.

Day 6 - over to Ballyvaughan in the heart of the Burren area

Day 7,8,9 on to Killarney - we'll tour the ring of Kerry, Dingle Peninsula, and Killarney Park.

Day 10 - On to Kinsale or Cobh in County Cork

Day 11 - back to Dublin for our last night

Day 12 - fly home

I'm using the internet and tourbooks to help me locate some interesting stops along the way, but if any of you have ever been to Ireland and know some must see places that may or may not be in the tour books, any comments would be appreciated. Our evenings will be hopefully be spent enjoying some Irish pubs. But any jazz recommendations for Belfast or Dublin would be appreciated. We'll probably spend our days meandering through the countryside, stopping for lunch and to see a few sites along the way to our next destination. We'd like to catch some of the natural beauty - hence the extended stay in Galway and Killarney. We'd also like to see some of the historic site along the way - monasteries, Celtic sites, castles, etc.

Any recommendations or comments appreciated.

Edited July 2, 2010 by Ed Swinnich

[BillF]

In Belfast you can take a taxi tour of the scenes of the Troubles. I found it mind-blowing and it's not dangerous nowadays, incidentally.

[Cliff Englewood]

Just a small hint, if you really intend to do all that traveling in such a short space of time, the only sights you'll be seeing will be the back of the car in front of you. :g

[A Lark Ascending]

You've got a great route there - but you'd get 2 weeks in just one of those days!

In Derry walk the walls - there's an amazing bit where you look across and see a Loyalist street with all the Union Jacks, slogans etc; turn the corner along the wall and you're looking down into the Catholic Bogside with a completely different set of identity markers. There's a locally run Bloody Sunday museum in the Bogside - they do a tour from there which I missed.

Linger through Connemara - I especially love the coast road from Westport round to Galway.

The Burren is amazing - try to take some time up there. The Poulnabrone Dolmen is worth a visit and there's a good historical/geological centre at Kilfenora. The Cliffs of Moher are worth a look too. You might try your luck down in Doolin which has a reputation for traditional music. I've generally been unlucky there - clearly commercial tourist bands playing 'Whiskey in the Jar' but you might strike lucky.

To be honest I find Killarney just a bit 'tea-cosy' Ireland (you'll get lots of that!). If you want a real adventure try and take your day 8 out on Skellig Michael. It's a rock in the Atlantic with Dark Age monastic beehive huts at the top and loads of puffins. When I went in the early 80s you couldn't go there officially but the girl at tourist info slipped me a piece of paper and told me to ring Paddy. Paddy took us out - it'll eat up your day but you'll never forget it. I suspect it might be better organised now.

It's a long time since I was there but the drive around the Dingle peninsula is breathtaking - there used to be a great book shop there. Beehive huts again.

I don't really know the Cork area at all.

Ireland is not exactly the place to look for jazz and the last time I was there (2007) the record shops not that exciting (though there were great trad folk music shops). Worth checking the internet for Louis Stewart. He plays there regularly (or used to). Hope you are luckier than me. I either miss him by a day or...on one occasion...he failed to turn up as he was still stuck at the Cork Jazz Festival (I was never sure if it was due to the floods or dhrink taken!)

Wherever you go you'll have a great time - don't worry too much about the guidebook highlights. You can venture off the beaten track and hit fascinating little jewels of scenery or history. The place is blessed with them.

Enjoy the trip.

[rostasi]

Each trip to Ireland has been so incredibly lovely,

that I could write many blog pages on them.

I will say one thing here tho: if you're a bit flexible on your dates,

try to be in Dublin on June 16th.

The 2004 celebrations were legendary (because of the centennial celebrations),

but I've been during other years and the mood of the city -

especially in front of the Joyce center - is absolutely electrifying!

Rod

[AndrewHill]

Yeah, when we were there a couple of years ago, we tried to cram so much in that we ended up spending more time in the car more than anything else. We were there for a week and it wasn't nearly enough time to do everything.

A couple of places that I could recommend that's not on your list that could be worthwhile:

The Guinness Storehouse in Dublin. Six stories crammed with fun stuff to do (and drink) that can last for hours, ending on the top floor with a panoramic view of Dublin and a complementary pint of Guinness.

Blarney Castle in Cork. You can make a day out of it if you want. The grounds alone are fun to go through and working your way through the castle to the Blarney stone is fun, if you don't mind cramp walkways here and there.

The Cliffs of Moher. Its a real nutty drive to get to them but its well worth it.

Kilkenny and Kilarney turned out to be our favorite stops (we predominately stayed in the southern part of Ireland and in the country. The food there is outrageously good and I don't recall a bad meal anywhere at all ( I think the best food was in Gort). The pubs open late (4pm?) and close early (I think 9pm) but if you want to stay later some pubs will let you "buy" a seat.

I don't know your hotel arrangements but I would recommend staying in a castle at least one night. Its really expensive but a lot of fun. You can wonder the halls and the grounds and get carried away just doing that. We stayed at Ballynahinch castle in Galway. Great golf course there too.

Hope that helps. Have fun!

[rostasi]

Oh, if you're doing as much driving as you say,

please be careful! Many roads are narrow

and there are the locals (seemed to be many young people)

who take those tight curves in wide arcs - very dangerous.

I've heard that the crash rate is very high in all parts of the country.

Expect the Guinness Storehouse tour to be expensive,

but it may be worth it to you.

...and, yes, Cliffs of Moher (but I still have some recurring

nightmares because I nearly went over due to stepping on the

back of my long coat and losing my balance),

the Burren, castles, Kilarney, etc...yes! all wonderful!

and expect to see a LOT of rocks -

You could spend time in Avoca in County Wicklow,

but it'd be best if you were a fan of the old TV show Ballykissangel.

Don't remember any jazz (tho there was contemporary classical in Dublin),

but do you really go to Ireland for jazz?

You could begin by flying in to Shannon on the West and work your way

clockwise to Dublin on this trip...and save the south for another two week trip.

It's a lovely country that needs to be taken in gradually and gently.

[B. Clugston]

If you have time during your stop in Galway, a visit to the Aran Islands is worthwhile.

[Chuck Nessa]

try the potatoes.

[Tim McG]

I'm envious, Ed.

One day, I hope to go over.

try the potatoes.

Hm.

Can Pat and Mike jokes be far behind...?

A rather unfortunate comment, Chuck.

You are aware, I hope, of the Irish Potato Famine of 1845-1852. Not cool.

Edited January 19, 2010 by GoodSpeak

[Brad]

I was in Dublin in June of last year and enjoyed it quite a bit. I walked around quite a bit and there's a nice (but touristy) shopping area downtown. The areas downtown around the quay are nice and right before you get in to the city, there's a lovely park (huge), whose name escapes me now. Drink plenty of Guinness!

[rostasi]

I was in Dublin in June of last year and enjoyed it quite a bit. I walked around quite a bit and there's a nice (but touristy) shopping area downtown. The areas downtown around the quay are nice and right before you get in to the city, there's a lovely park (huge), whose name escapes me now. Drink plenty of Guinness!

You may be thinking of St Stephen's Green where it's easy to spend a lazy day.

O'Connell and Grafton streets are a couple of commerce areas with street musicians on the latter

and in the evening you can spend some time in the pubs and clubs in the Temple Bar area too.

Oh! and if you're a history buff, you can see the Book of Kells at the Trinity College Library

plus an amazing amount of historical wealth!

[brownie]

I don't think touring the whole of Ireland in less than two weeks will be a very rewarding experience.

Nothing special about the northern part. It's OK but not worth coming all the way from the other side of the Atlantic.

May I suggest you concentrate on the western and southwestern section of this splendid country?

Take time to really explore Donegal and Connemara countries then head south to Kerry.

Southward, the Dingle peninsula is a must see area. You'll need to spend more than two days there to really feel that irish spirit!

Killarney is fine but explore the southern shores in the area (may I recommend a visit to Valentia Island?)

Also no need to worry about the rain. It comes with the territory and is very often interrupted by appearances of the sun.

[medjuck]

If you have time during your stop in Galway, a visit to the Aran Islands is worthwhile.

I was there 45 years ago and I'd love to go back to see what the Aran islands are like today. We spent a few days on Inishmore the largest island and in those days they didn't have electricity. It was quite a wonderful place.

[Cliff Englewood]

try the potatoes.

Hm.

Can Pat and Mike jokes be far behind...?

A rather unfortunate comment, Chuck.

You are aware, I hope, of the Irish Potato Famine of 1845-1852. Not cool.

Not to burst your PC bubble or anything but as the only one on this Board who could make a genuine claim to being offended by that remark, I found it actually brought a grin, which in itself, is rare for a Nessa post.

It would actually be Paddy and Mick jokes to be precise, Pat maybe but Mike???

The Famine was quite a long time ago and happened for a myriad of different reasons and you might be suprised to find that we're kinda over it by now, it's still used occasionally as a(nother) reason for hating the English, but we have have more than enough of them already so it rarely gets an airing. :w

You Yankee Doodles might want to toughen up a bit before you come over here. We don't really do "Political Correctness". :rsmile: :rsmile: :rsmile:

I don't think touring the whole of Ireland in less than two weeks will be a very rewarding experience.

:tup

I was in Dublin in June of last year and enjoyed it quite a bit. I walked around quite a bit and there's a nice (but touristy) shopping area downtown. The areas downtown around the quay are nice and right before you get in to the city, there's a lovely park (huge), whose name escapes me now. Drink plenty of Guinness!

I think you are refering to the Phoenix Park, maybe???

[Ed S]

Thanks all for the comments and keep 'em coming if there's anything to add.

One of the things I'm trying to balance is touring the whole island vs spending more time in each place and proceeding at a more leisurely pace. I've actually got an alternate itinerary mapped out that eliminates the north and concentrates on the west, south and Dublin. I posted the one with more traveling because I wanted to gauge reaction as to whether I was biting off too much in a short period. Based on comments made thus far, it seems that might be the case.

The comments thus far have been very helpful. Thanks

[Ed S]

try the potatoes.

Hmmm. That's something I'll definitely have to consider.

Do you have any suggestions for beer?

[Brad]

try the potatoes.

Hm.

Can Pat and Mike jokes be far behind...?

A rather unfortunate comment, Chuck.

You are aware, I hope, of the Irish Potato Famine of 1845-1852. Not cool.

Not to burst your PC bubble or anything but as the only one on this Board who could make a genuine claim to being offended by that remark, I found it actually brought a grin, which in itself, is rare for a Nessa post.

It would actually be Paddy and Mick jokes to be precise, Pat maybe but Mike???

The Famine was quite a long time ago and happened for a myriad of different reasons and you might be suprised to find that we're kinda over it by now, it's still used occasionally as a(nother) reason for hating the English, but we have have more than enough of them already so it rarely gets an airing.

You Yankee Doodles might want to toughen up a bit before you come over here. We don't really do "Political Correctness".

I don't think touring the whole of Ireland in less than two weeks will be a very rewarding experience.

I was in Dublin in June of last year and enjoyed it quite a bit. I walked around quite a bit and there's a nice (but touristy) shopping area downtown. The areas downtown around the quay are nice and right before you get in to the city, there's a lovely park (huge), whose name escapes me now. Drink plenty of Guinness!

I think you are refering to the Phoenix Park, maybe???

Yes, it was Phoenix Park. I had the cabbie drop me off there. Spent some time in the park. What a wonderful park and then walked into town.

[AndrewHill]

Oh! and if you're a history buff, you can see the Book of Kells at the Trinity College Library

plus an amazing amount of historical wealth!

Yeah, I wanted to see that, but when I tried going to Trinity College, they were closed because of St. Patrick's Day. Drove by James Joyce's house too, but they didn't seem to be open for visitors either.

[A Lark Ascending]

When returning to Dublin the temptation will be to take the main roads in. A much nicer experience is to cut across the Wicklow Gap through the Wicklow Mountains (I cycled it many years ago which was an experience). Down the bottom you'll come to:

Glendalough.

You can spend a happy couple of hours wandering around the ruins and the lakes.

It's only about 90 minutes from the centre of Dublin (traffic permitting!).

**************

I'd agree that you'd be best limiting your distance - a distance that looks quite speedy in US road terms will prove much longer on the twisty, turny coast roads. Focus on Mayo/Galway/Clare/Kerry (you'll still feel you've rushed things!) with some time in Dublin if there are things you'd particularly like to see (Kilmainham Jail is a good tour if you have an interest in Irish history).

Edited January 19, 2010 by Bev Stapleton

[Quincy]

I'm guessing you have these marked down for the Antrim Coast drive, but you must see the Giant's Causeway and Dunluce Castle. The former will give you a chance to get some walking in on a day of driving. I saw 'em both before and after Led Zeppelin's Houses of the Holy album came out. Didn't see naked kids on the rocks either time. Carrickfergus is also on the drive near the beginning and I doubt you'll be "castled out" so early in the trip.

Cliffs of Moher are worth seeing too for another rugged nature stop. I'd be tempted to chop off a portion of your itinerary to slow things down elsewhere for a calmer vacation. I'd nip part of the more touristy latter southern excursion as mentioned by Bev, but my Dad is from the north so I may have a bias.

[vajerzy]

We went in October 2000 for 8 days- we drove alot- started in Miltown Malbay in Clare- mt great-grandfather Kelly emigrated from there- and I still have relatives around the area. Found some in Ballard Cemetary. Went to Corofin, through Galway to the Connemarra Mts- toured an old mine, saw the "Quiet Man" bridge and on to Clifden. Turned around went through Clare again, Cliffs of Mohr, played golf at Lahinch- then to Killarney, Kilkenny, around back through Limerick to just outside Shannon. Then flew home.

Stayed in bed/breakfasts, took back roads, used a map from Borders- ate at pubs. A wonderful experience!

Looking back- I wish I concentrated on a smaller area so I can just take in the scenery and culture- especially around Miltown Malbay. You may want to do that as well- immerse yourself in the culture. That was my favorite part- we intentionally stayed away from the big cities.

Edited January 19, 2010 by vajerzy

[sal]

This company did a great job for me. I didn't take one of their pre-packaged tours, but rather told them the areas I was interested in exploring, and they did a great job setting me up in nice places to stay, whether it was B&B, hotel or castle.

http://www.irishtourism.com/

I rented a car and drove.

I really don't mean to be disrespectful to anyone from the eastern portion of the island, but the west coast of Ireland is simply spectacular and I wish I had concentrated all my time there, rather than spend so much time in County Cork and Dublin. Connemara is one of the most beautiful places on Earth and I highly recommend you visit there. Ireland is a beautiful country with so much to see. The people are really nice too. Its a place I hope to visit again at some point in my lifetime.

[sal]

Another thing, I agree with others that your itinerary may be a bit too crammed. You don't want to spend the majority of your time driving.

[sal]

And one last thing....if you're feeling adventurous once you reach Kerry, take your car through the Gap of Dunloe. You'll get some dirty looks from the guys running the horse carriages, but its beyond worth it. Its one of the most beautiful stretches of road you'll ever drive down.