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LP to CD


mrjazzman

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If I try to do this with my computer, I know I'll get stuck at some point in the process. As far as CD Recorders are concerned, which is the BEST and LEAST expensive models along with compatible turntables. I would imagine that if your LP's are really scratchy with hiss and pops, you need to go through the puter..........

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The current selection of CD Recorders isn't very large, as these devices haven't sold very well in the past years because of the competition from PC CD burners. They need dedicated CD-R blanks, which can easily be found but are slightly more expensive.

A CD-R burner must be connected to an amplifier just like a tape recorder. You cannot connect a turntable directly because the the phono signal needs to be pre-amplified and equalized.

http://www.cdrfaq.org/faq05.html#S5-12

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I've had great success with a Philips CDR 765 stand-alone burner. Like Claude says, run 'er through an amp. I'm sure that I've seen these pop up on eBay (used) for under $100.

765max.jpg

Unfortunatel Weizen, you & I may be one of a few who have had good luck with this model. Most people's CDR 765 decks have long since croaked and I don't think I could recommend it right now.

Best bang for the buck right now is probably the HHB CDR830 BurnIt and the Tascam CD-RW750, both of which seem to go for around $550. Another one with a decent reputation is the Denon CDR-W1500, which is also around that price but may be easier to find in a local shop.

I hear that the cheap Sony decks in the local big box stores like Circuit City and Best Buy are really bad, although I've not personally used one.

FWIW, I only my Philips CDR-765 audio deck for needle drops to CD-RW. I then extract the audio to my PC hardrive, clean it up with this great, inexpensive program called Click Repair, and then burn it with my PC drive.

Kevin

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I borrowed a friend's Alessis Masterlink recorder with excellent results.

I have read favorable reviews about a similar machine brought out by Yamaha last year, at about $ 800.

You can connect the turntable directly to those, but you need a turntable pre-amp. This may result in even better sound.

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I use an HHB CDR830 BurnIT Professional. Great because:

1) It's simple to use and has all the features you really want/need

2) Works with regular old computer CD-R/RW discs - saves $$$

3) Makes tonally neutral burns (big important thing for me...my old Sony burner added "warmth" to everything which I hated - I want to hear what is going into the unit from the source)

Sells for about $500 but if you are into transferring vinyl to CD and want a simple, great sounding way to do it, this machine is great.

I learned about it on the Steve Hoffman Forums, I believe Steve uses one himself because of its neutrality/lack of coloration.

Edited by DrJ
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Thanks for the response. Has anyone used the Teac GF-350? If so, were you satisfied with the results?

I don't know if it was this board or another, but we talked about this unit. If you look into that machine, the turntable is a piece of crap. It's a ceramic cartridge unit. I wouldn't use that turntable on my records! I really don't think this is an option for anyone who cares about their records.

Kevin

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  • 4 weeks later...

Not "computer-less", but for about $60-70 try Xitel's INport. Just Google it. If you can live with the sound of your lps this is the deal.

Thanks for the tip Chuck. I got this a few days ago and checked it out last night. I am not a computer genius, but got everything working on the first try. I also have a Marantz burner - the advantage of the INport device is that you skip the step of having to burn a CD and then import it into your laptop - plus with INport, you can record an entire side and then create individual tracks on your computer (although the ripping program that comes along also seems to do this for you with INport).

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FWIW, I only my Philips CDR-765 audio deck for needle drops to CD-RW. I then extract the audio to my PC hardrive, clean it up with this great, inexpensive program called Click Repair, and then burn it with my PC drive.

Kevin

Here is the Click Repair site:

http://wwwmaths.anu.edu.au/~briand/sound/

I am presuming that I can bring it in using INport and then clean it up with Cilck Repair (although as mentioned above, the occasional scratches are OK with me).

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Here is the Click Repair site:

http://wwwmaths.anu.edu.au/~briand/sound/

I am presuming that I can bring it in using INport and then clean it up with Cilck Repair (although as mentioned above, the occasional scratches are OK with me).

Click Repair works on .wav files. If the INport gives you .wav files, you're all set.

It is a great program. Try it out before you buy it. You'll be amazed by the results. You can set how aggressively to remove the clicks. I set my level to 20. Any higher seems to get a bit of drum sound. But at 20, it just gets the clicks. It's quite impressive.

Edited by Kevin Bresnahan
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